Hezhe, the ethnic minority located in the far north of China, are nomadic people with a traditional heritage closely linked to hunting and fishing. With a population of only four thousand people, it is one of China’s smallest ethnic minorities. In ancient times, the women would make colourful, unique clothes from fish skin for their community. Fish skin clothes have emerged into a rare art form symbolizing the fading culture of the Hezhe minority.

The Hezhe minority is also known as Heijie, Heizhen and Nanai who are often referred to as the “Fish Skin Tribe”. The nomadic tribes are spread along the major river valets in the Heilongjiang Province in areas such as Heilong, Songhua and Wusuli. 

Different types of fish caught by Hezhe men during their traditional fishing expeditions are used to create different pieces of clothing. The bighead or pike is used to make the fish skin thread and trousers. The skin of chum salmon, taimen and carp is sewn into gloves. Bags and Puttees are made from the skin of the Huaitou fish. Kuluga skin is mostly used for winter clothes while other thinner fish skins are ideal for summer wear. 

The process of producing fish skin clothing involves a long process and patience. The skin of the fish is removed and dried before the scales are scraped off. The fish skin is hung on the door for a night before the design is outlined. The thin skin is then hammered with a wooden mallet to resemble cotton cloth. Many fish skins are sewn together with silver carp skin threads forming various patterns of clothing. A fish bone needle is used for sewing as it is delicate enough to not damage the skin. The finished product can take several months of work. The natural patterns are shiny and smooth. The fish skin is thick and tough. 

The style of clothing created from fish skin is roughly based on the Manchu clothing style. The famous fish skin dress shares many similarities to the Manchu cheongsam. Both dresses reach past the knees and have loose, short sleeves with no collar. The fish skin dress is classed as the national costume of the Hezhe women. Most fish skin clothing is trimmed with coloured cloth and includes elegantly embroidered patterns. Many trousers are often decorated with copper bells. The designs and patterns of clothing are different for males and females. The clothing is known for its durability and suitability for cold and wet conditions.

The new, modernized lifestyle and living conditions of the Hezhe people has led to the near extinction of fish-scale clothing. Cotton is the main material used for Hezhe garments, leaving the fish scale clothing only made for artistic purposes. Hopefully, this unique folk craft will continue to be a treasured tradition of the Hezhe minority.